Tuesday, January 12, 2010

That Yolk Isn't Runny Anymore, Part II

I had big plans for the follow up to the previous post.  I really did.  There was a video involved and everything.  However, the batteries on my camera were much closer to dead than I thought, which sort of took the wind out of my sails, creatively speaking.  But there are pictures.

So here you go, That Yolk Isn't Runny Anymore, Part II, "What's All This Then About Boundaries?"

Yes, boundaries.  Boundaries will keep your egginess happy at much higher temperatures than usual.  And in the case of custards, boundaries = starch.  If you've ever added some flour or cornstarch to a cheesecake or pumpkin pie recipe, this is to give a bit of a cushion against the whole syneresis monster.

Probably the most basic, and most versatile, starch based custard is good ol' pastry cream.  Basically it's just pudding, with eggs.  You can make it with any flavor you feel like, and use it to fill anything you want.  Had an Eclair recently?  Pastry cream.  Banana cream pie?  Banana pastry cream.  Ohhhh, speaking of...

So we'll saute up some bananas, B's Foster style and all.  That means buttery caramel and flaming rum.

So you have to stir the butter and sugar pretty awesomely fast, so it doesn't burn and all.  There's like a half cup of sugar in there, and a chunk of butter.  I don't know how much.  Who says baking needs to be precise?  Whatever.  Anyway, then you throw in banana bits when the lot turns brown, but before it turns black.


And then the fun part!  Chuck in a bunch of rum and let 'er blow.  This is really where I wanted the video to work, but alas, we're stuck with interesting long exposure photography.  So that flambe bit, there's differing opinions on it and all.  I'm of the opinion that it's strictly for show, and doesn't really do much other then burn off some alcohol that would have evaporated anyway.

But anyway, after the flames die out, pour it into a tart shell.  I made the tart dough with 50% whole wheat flour, brown sugar, and some cinnamon.  Sort of a graham cracker thing that way.


So here's the pastry cream part.  First, whisk up some eggs with some sugar and starch. 


I prefer cornstarch.  You can use flour, which is more common in the UK, or potato starch, which I've been told is common in France.  Any kind of starch, really. Also, I used brown sugar to compliment the other flavors going on with the bananas and all.  Then you whisk in hot milk, and stick it back on the stove.


It starts off liquidy, but then it magically thickens!  Smack it around in there so it doesn't burn, and bring it on up to a good boil.  Here's the trick when you're using starch in a custard: not only does it allow you to super heat your eggs, it actually requires you to do so.  Egg yolks have this thing called amylase, which is an enzyme that eats starch.  If you don't destroy the enzyme with heat, then over the next day or two the starches will break down and you'll get a watery mess.  So boil that cream!  And then pour it over the bananas.  Chill it in the fridge, covered with plastic wrap if you're not a fan of puddin' skin.  Then top it all off with some whipped cream for good measure.



There you have it.  It actually ended up with some freshly grated nutmeg over the top, after the picture was taken.  I used the tart to bribe people to come keep me company, because I get lonely over here on the east side.  It was dark as we ate at my home, and on cold wooden seats, well it suddenly struck me: I just might die with a smile on my face after all.

4 comments:

  1. As I recall, there was one person who wasn't sitting on a hard wooden chair, but rather bouncing up and down incessantly. Look what your Bananas Foster tart did.

    ReplyDelete
  2. true true, but i wasn't describing the actual situation so much as shamelessly continuing my parody of the smiths song "that joke isn't funny anymore." i mean really, that whole last bit isn't really something i'd write on my own. let's not be silly.

    ReplyDelete
  3. man alive, one post is just more delicious than the next...

    ReplyDelete
  4. that was some bitchin' tart, man! Thanks so much for sharing!! Also, I'm now subscribed to this blog, and I'm realllly happy about it!

    ReplyDelete